Bull Harbour is a jumping off spot on the northern tip of Vancouver Island. This is the last safe harbor before crossing the Nahwitti Bar and rounding Cape Scott, especially in June when the summer weather hasn’t settled in yet. On June 8th, this is where I met Lyndon and Tiffany Walde of Walde Sailing. The video below is from there weekly episodes which they post on YouTube. You will see Sampaguita making a cameo appearance from time mark 13:09 until the end of the video. Well, a cameo is a bit of a stretch, but I can at least say she is a film extra!

Actually, Bull Harbor is on Hope Island, just off the northern tip of Vancouver Island and represents the farthest north I have yet to sail with Sampaguita. Wikipedia claims the population is between 2-20 people. It is First Nation land and as it was late in, and early out for me, I did not go ashore. The anchoring here is excellent in about 25 feet of water with a muddy bottom.

The following morning I left Bull Harbor and timed the crossing of Nahwitti Bar which is just west of Hope Island. The crossing was uneventful on this particular day, but this is one of those spots publishings warn you about. It is recommended you cross at high water slack and to think twice if there is significant wind and/or incoming ocean swell.

On the day I crossed the Bar, June 9, 2018, Sampaguita and I had our longest leg of the nearly 1000 nautical mile journey, at 58.19NM in our effort to make Winter Harbour.  It included rounding Cape Scott under less than ideal conditions, taking on the Pacific Ocean and entering the unfamiliar Quatsino Sound and anchoring after dark. However, I will save that story for another post.

Bull Harbour

The Pier in Bull Harbour from the Rear View Mirror

Sea Stack

A Sea Stack in the Bull Harbour Channel.

I was rinsing down the anchor gear on deck of Sampaguita, my 1985 Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, back in my home port when a dock mate walked by. He asked,” how much anchor rode is that?” “300 feet,” I replied. “Do you really need that much?” “Yes, if I anchor in 60 feet of water and I put out 5:1 scope, I do.”

Flicka 20 Anchor

I have used all of it at times. In the Pacific Northwest we can have a 14-foot tidal swing, so what is 40 foot this afternoon might be 54 feet in the evening. 5:1 is a minimum scope ratio for a mostly nylon rode. It does get a little tricky and takes some compromise in a busy anchorage. In a tight spot, I will also use a stern tie. I don’t want to use more than I need for the sake of sharing, and because the more rode out, the more subject to chafe. However, it takes what it takes. I need to sleep well, or rather, I may be so tired I will sleep well. I don’t want to worry about dragging anchor or swinging into others.

Have I ever dragged anchor? Maybe once…..so far. It may have been just stretching under a massive wind gust. I did not need to reset the anchor. When I swung to the other side of the circle, however, I feel like I was about 5 or 10 feet shy of my previous marks. Below is a GPS track of my anchorage in Klaskino Basin waiting out a storm just north of Brooks Peninsula.

Klaskino Basin

Klaskino Basin

Depths in Meters – It’s Canadian eh?

The Environment Canada weather report kept upping the ante with this front. First a “Gale Warning” then a “Storm Warning.” The last of my notes during the thick of it were:

June 12, 2018 – Time – 1730 – West Coast Vancouver Island North – Storm Warning – SE 30-40 knots w/ SE 50 over headlands – Solander Island (15 NM as the crow flies to the South) – 45 knots, gusting 53. Sartine Island (~40 NM to the North) – 42 knots, gusting 52.

Here’s the story:

The Waldes, of Walde Sailing (we were buddy boating,) and I arrived at the Klaskino Inlet anchorage late in the afternoon. We had decided, based on our guidebooks, that this would be the best place to wait out the incoming storm forecast for the next day. When we left North Harbor, the wind was light and required motoring out of Quatsino Sound. However, about three miles out, it turned into a great sailing day. We were able to sail around Lawn Point and Scarf Reef, up Newton Entrance, and around Rugged Island. Then, between Martin Rock and Steele Reef and into Scouler Entrance. I had chosen Klaskino Basin to anchor, and the Waldes chose the anchorage to the east. Can you see the red loop in the track? The river delta is where we saw the family of bears I picture in a previous post.

Klaskino Inlet

Scouler Entrance

Klaskino Inlet

The Sailing Directions mention if the two buoys are not present, do not attempt the entrance. They tend to drift in storms.

Klaskino Basin

Scouler Entrance

I aimed to put the anchor directly in the center of the basin, where the bottom was thick dark mud and shell. I judge the water depth from the chart and by “feel.” The first tells me the surveyed depth. The second comes from anchoring by hand, sensing when the weight of the anchor touches the bottom, and then when the last of the chain of 30 foot hits too. I then take an approximate measurement from the markers on the anchor rode. I factor in the state of the tide, cross-reference this to the chart, then assess for agreement. Using this method, I estimated the depth to be about 40 foot, took note of the tide level, then let out another 133 feet. I do have a leadline but chose not to use it this time.

After I made a satisfying meal of pasta and tomato sauce, doctored with onions, garlic, spices, and Uli’s dried sausage, the Waldes and I did some bear watching. Then I settled in for an evenings rest. The night was peaceful, and in the morning, I awoke to the calls of many different birds. I’d read this was a migratory stopover for several species. Also, the sound of what I would later learn was a logging truck. At the time though, I thought it was a low flying plane, in the mountains below the cloud cover.

I washed dishes and tidied up as I expected a long day of anchor watch. I also considered setting a second anchor. The winds were forecast from the SE, then shifting to the SW. Instead, I waited to see how the topography affected the wind and was glad I did.

The winds began around 9 am, alternating calms with strong gusts. These strong gusts would come from all directions. This is why I was glad I did not put out a second anchor. The tidal currents were unpredictable too with water flowing in multiple directions. The surrounding topography played a role in all of this. I let out the anchor rode to 160 foot, and then 200 foot.

The boat was sailing around at anchor, and there was more to come. As the day went on, the wind gusts built and the forecast revised. I put my foulies on to stand outside and watch the shore swing by, with an eye for it getting to close. The inflatable kayak was tethered to the stern cleat with a single painter. I was looking at it and thinking, “I really should’ve put a chafe guard on the towing bridle right from the start. Maybe I’ll do that now.” Then I heard the whistle of an approaching gust of wind from the South, followed a few seconds later by the whistle of an approaching gust from the East. The boat heeled to starboard, then to port, and the kayak was lifted three feet out of the water and did a 360-degree roll in the air. “And while I’m at it, I’ll attach the kayak with painters on both ends.”

By the afternoon, I increased the rode length to 225 feet. With the tide, this was oscillating between a 5:1 and 6:1 scope ratio. It was all I dared to put out in the basin. The swing circle was 500 feet, including the length of the boat. I could use the Pythagorean theorem and get a more scientific answer, but the difference from the rode measurement is insignificant. In case I needed to move the boat, I lowered the outboard motor and test started it. With the wind alternating between calms and gusts, I could haul up the anchor and move. If necessary, my escape plan was to relocate to Klaskino Anchorage, just to the south. It was more exposed to the wind, and the depths were greater so my scope ratio wouldn’t improve, but it was less confined. In the Klaskino Basin, every direction was a lee shore. The calms were great, but the gusts were very violent. I could hear the whistling through the trees and see them bending over. Water spray was lifting from the surface, and the parade of wavelets raced across the water. The sea state was never fierce, though I could see the small chop created by the wind against current. Sampaguita wanted to float broadside to the wind so the gusts would make the boat heel over and sail across the basin. I measured the boat’s speed at times over 1 kt.

I inspected my two grab bags and asked myself, “If I had to leave the boat immediately, what would I want to take?” They lacked important items. I gathered more batteries, the backup GPS, cash, water, Larabars, passport, keys, wallet, and the handheld VHF and put them into a third bag. In my present location, I was isolated but not alone. When our positions were in line, I could see the Walde’s boat through the trees. We were likely the only ones around for miles. If one of us were to have trouble, there would not be much the other could initially do, but it wouldn’t be a search and rescue scenario.

The Waldes were having their own anchoring stories. In North Harbor, Quatsino Sound, the morning before, they discovered their anchor was hooked on a mass of heavy discarded line. They spent two hours cutting the anchor free by leaning over the dinghy, swimming mask and snorkel on, with a saw attached to a boat hook. I was to learn later, their anchor dragged during this storm, and they had needed to reset it.

In the late afternoon, there seemed to be an extended lull. I thought, “maybe this is it.” I went below, took my foul weather gear off and was contemplating some warm food. Just after undressing, I heard a gust of wind coming. That I heard it coming as well as I did down below in Sampaguita’s cozy cabin was a sign that it would be massive. The boat heeled to port and sailed to the end of the anchor rode’s slack, then heeled even farther as it came up bow to wind. I heard a throaty, unfamiliar sound come from the bow roller. I quickly looked at the GPS track, and it showed me just outside the circle I had been previously tracking in. I jumped up on deck to see how the boat lay. There was an islet very close to the SW with shoal water around it. Everything seemed to be OK, and the anchor seemed to be holding. Stretch or dragging? With a rush of adrenaline kicked in, I put my foulies back on and started a new shift of anchor watch.

Besides being on the alert for a dragging anchor, other items I had to watch out for was the rode’s lead. The boat not only tacked back and forth across the wind, but it would spin and jibe too. As it sailed around, influenced by the wind and the currents, the anchor rode’s lead changed, putting varying degrees of stress on the bowsprit, platform, and cleats. There is not much I can do about this, but sometimes the rode wanted to foul between the Flicka and the kayak tied alongside (a disadvantage of the two painter system.) Other hazards were around too. The night before and also in the morning, I had spotted a deadhead drifting around in Klaskino Anchorage. I was hoping it would not enter the basin during the storm as I had no interest in tangling with it. This would also be a consideration if I needed to relocate to Klaskino Anchorage.

The weather continued as advertised, until about 11:45 pm. It had been going on for 15 hours. The front passed and the gusts moderated. I went to bed, leaving the GPS tracking. With a red flashlight close by, I could check it whenever I awoke. It wasn’t a great nights sleep, but by morning the weather was clear. I planned to take in the rode as the morning’s low tide progressed. In 21 hours the GPS said I traveled 4.99 NM at anchor. The gear did a great job, even with short scope. The holding in Klaskino Basin is very good in thick mud and shell. With the local topography and currents, it can be an awkward anchorage in heavy winds from the SE.

Port Townsend Anchorage

Sampaguita at rest in Port Townsend. 40-50 ft depth with 250 ft of rode.

One of my wildlife viewing hopes came true on this trip. I was just getting settled at anchor in Klaskino Basin when the Walde’s came into the basin in their dinghy. “Josh, get your camera, there is a family of bears around the corner!” So I got my gear on, slipped into the dinghy with them and we watched three bears foraging for food along the shore. Sweet. When I left 2 days later, I saw another along Mocino Point.

Klaskino Inlet

The sea otter has made a good recovery on the West Coast of Vancouver. They can be seen floating on their backs, cracking open shells and eating over the entire range. I am told the crabbing industry has taken a hit as a result. I am not sure if that is because the otters are eating the crabs, or whether the crabs are protected for their food. They are pretty adorable when they are floating on their backs. With over 1 million hairs per square inch, their fur must be amazing.

Hot Springs Cove

 

The circumnavigation of Vancouver Island is complete after 39 days and the return to the home port achieved. There are many boat chores to do, and the adjustment of re-entry into the world begins. I am fortunate that the systems worked and maintained well and the experience was positive.Vancouver Island

2018 Log

 

2018 VI TRIP $

 

The above list reflects the costs incurred during the trip. It does not include preparation, supplies and provisioning costs.

Gasoline – This was the greatest expense of the trip. Included was the purchase of a 5-liter jerry can in Port McNeill to increase reserve fuel. Gas in Canada is purchased by the liter and more costly than in the United States. In more remote Canadian locations, they round up to the liter and can sometimes run out of fuel. Canada no longer uses the penny, rounding your change down. Marine grade fuel is often available in Canada and the US.

Moorage – This includes 3 nights on Canadian Government Docks. This is a low amenity, value option not typically available in the US.

Entertainment – This mostly represents going to an establishment for a land meal and refreshments. However, the ventures were usually multi-purpose including internet access and communications, computer and electronics recharging, milestone celebrations and meeting up with friends.

Shower/ Laundry/ Propane/ Provisioning/ Garbage – Showers usually require a fee, though the cost and conditions can vary. Laundromats were available along the way with CA costs considerably more than US costs. I topped off my propane tank in Fair Harbour, for convenience, and to be sure I did not run out. I resupplied on fresh food in Port McNeill and locally grown kale at the Blind Channel Resort. The disposal of garbage can cost a fee, depending on where and how much.

Visiting Port Townsend and closing the circle on my circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Hanging at Admiral Ship Supply with a friend and the Lady Washington is on the hard right in front of the store.Admiral Ship Supply

After 33 days, I’m back in the USA. Just checked in through customs in Port Angeles, which is the chillest place to check in through customs of the 3 locations I have done so by boat. I am pretty sure the customs official was in training as he had a silent partner and was double checking his checklist. It’s cool, I wasn’t smuggling anything. When(if) I arrive in Port Townsend I will have tied the knot on a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. It’s pretty exciting and has been a liberating trip. A friend just turned me on to this quote. I feel it worth repeating.

To be nobody but yourself in a world which is doing its best, night and day, to make you everybody else – means to fight the hardest battle which any human being can fight; and never stop fighting.

e. e. cummings

Dodger Channel

Sunset from Dodger Channel, the night before I left for my transit of Juan de Fuca Strait.

Juan De Fuca Strait

Sailing across the shipping lanes in Juan de Fuca Strait. If anyone tells you steel doesn’t float, they are not doing it right.

Orca

That would be a male Orca in Juan de Fuca Strait. As usual, many whale sightings.

 

 

Ramsay Hot Springs. I’ve been here before, but it was well worth the return. Plus, it had been almost 2 weeks since my last shower. It was a two night anchorage as I planned a rest day here also. The first night I went in at 9pm and got the place all to myself, which is mostly a lucky break. I got to do a bit of au natural. The second night there were a group of hikers partying at the springs which made it not quite so serene, so that was a quick shower and soak. No matter, I had my time.

Note: You really don’t want to visit the springs between 8am and 6pm because the Tofino tour operators are bringing in hordes of people on tour boats during this time, with their cell phones and what not. (Unless you’re into that sort of thing.) The hot springs just aren’t that big and can only comfortably accommodate maybe 6- 8 people before it starts to feel crowded. Bring your boat and anchor out or camp so you can go early in the morn or late at night.

Ramsay Hot Springs

Pedro gets a Bath and yes, then a Shave.

 

Hot Springs Cove

And a Shower.

Hot Springs Cove

The Crevasce of Pools.

Hot Springs Cove

The View in the Other Direction.

Dixie Cove Provincial Park

Sampaguita at rest in Dixie Cove Provincial Park in Kyuqout Sound.  Lyndon, Tiffany and I braved the Northwest rain-forest and climbed the bluff above the Dixie Cove to catch the view and see if we could receive the weather channel on the VHF radio. We succeeded in the climb, but not in the reception. We managed to get pretty earthy (read as dirty) in the process, but it was worth it.

Dixie Cove Provincial Park

Xanadu – The Walde’s Niagara 35

Check out their story:

Walde Sailing

 

 

 

I spent two nights in Port McNeill waiting out the weather at the Government dock and on a walk I saw an enormous nursery stump in someones yard. It was the largest I had ever seen. When I say nursery stump, I mean that they planted their own flowers in it. I provisioned on some fresh foods and was anxious to get underway. It is a bit of an odd town of fisherman and lumberjacks and not aesthetically appealing. I may have been less anxious if I were at anchor, but I doubt it.

Flicka 20 Bowsprit

 

Not much time for blogging on the go. Taking care of the boat and myself takes everything. I’m in Westview, BC, my first rest stop in a week. My goal is to circumnavigate Vancouver Island. There are no guarantees, and many potential pitfalls. My first night at a dock. I ducked in here to get out of the mighty Northwest winds. I beat up Malaspina Strait yesterday against them, with current against wind. I read about how it could be. Now I have proof. Very intense and wet, rolling between 10 and 30 degrees of heel. It makes you feel alive. Sampaguita is in the lower left and the mighty Island is in the background. Westview